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The implosion of the Netherlands’ elite anti-elitist

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The Netherlands upstart anti-EU populist party is in tatters. Thierry Baudet, leader of the Forum for Democracy founded in 2016, has stepped down from a group dogged by fratricide and allegations of anti-Semitism among its youth ranks. 

It’s a significant event ahead of a general election due in March — one of the first electoral tests for an incumbent EU government since the coronavirus pandemic hit. It will be an important pointer to whether the Covid-19 crisis has given the European extreme right a boost.

Mr Baudet, 37, had been hailed as the acceptable face of his country’s nativist hard right after leading a successful referendum campaign against the EU-Ukraine association agreement in 2016. The FvD was born a year later. It won two seats in a general election that year and later secured the joint highest number of seats in the country’s upper house of parliament in 2019.

In a country where the extreme right had long been monopolised by the polarising figure of Geert Wilders, Mr Baudet’s brand of intellectualised nativism was something new. Many analysts saw it as a serious electoral threat to Mr Wilders and the country’s mainstream conservatives and liberals, including Mark Rutte, the prime minister since 2010.

The FvD’s ranks were made up of professionals, academics and journalists who vowed to disrupt the country’s “cartel” of parties. Mr Baudet made headlines in the Dutch press for diatribes against modern architecture and Muslim migration — and for posing naked on Instagram. 

But the FvD has also been plagued by accusations of racism among its members and allegations of Kremlin funding, denied by Mr Baudet. The party was also torn into two after a schism over funding between Mr Baudet and his co-founder last year.

Mr Baudet’s luck finally seemed to have run out this week when Dutch newspaper Het Parool published details of the FvD’s youth branch posting anti-Semitic and racist messages on Instagram. 

Mr Baudet announced he was stepping down as leader but later said he would still stand in the leadership contest. That sparked a fresh round of sniping from internal rivals. One senator claimed Mr Baudet told a dinner party of prospective MPs that the billionaire backer of liberal causes George Soros was responsible for Covid-19 in an effort to “take away our freedoms” (NOS). Mr Baudet has said he doesn’t recognise the comments.

Like other populist forces in Europe, Mr Baudet failed to make political inroads during the pandemic. Last month he stood outside the country’s parliament with a megaphone to denounce lockdown measures — but watching journalists seemed to outnumber actual protesters.

The FvD’s demise will be a boon for Mr Wilders and the brand of xenophobic populism that has seen him corner a consistent 10–15 per cent of the Dutch electorate. Even before Mr Baudet’s implosion, Mr Wilders had been polling second behind Mr Rutte’s ruling liberals. 

Three years after its inception, the FvD seems destined to go down as a flash in the pan rather than a truly disruptive force in Dutch politics. As authors Harm Ede Botje and Mischa Cohen have noted, Mr Baudet’s brand of elite anti-elitism appealed to a media growing tired of Mr Wilders, who has been an MP for 22 years. Now it seems as if the election will be a contest between two political veterans — Mr Rutte and Mr Wilders — with little room for the brash alt-right challenger.

Chart du jour: No bright spots for European tourism

Line chart of Annual change in number of nights spent in tourist accommodation (%) showing European tourism recovered somewhat during the summer

It has been a predictably grim year for tourism in Europe. While the lockdown-free summer months brought something of a rebound, the number of nights spent by holidaymakers in many European countries has fallen well below last year’s numbers. With much of Europe gripped by second lockdowns of varying severity, a recovery is unlikely before the end of the year.

Europe news round-up

© via REUTERS
  • Hungary and Poland have demanded “substantial modification” to the EU’s rule of law mechanism as their price for dropping a veto over a €1.8tn budget package. In a joint declaration, premiers Viktor Orban and Mateusz Morawiecki also said any decision to curb budget payments to countries over alleged rule of law breaches would require a reopening of the bloc’s treaties. Their stance has dismayed EU officials. The FT has more, while The Economist’s Charlemagne sees the stand-off as a Newtonian tale about the power of inertia.

  • Ski resorts in the EU may be left out in the cold this year. German Chancellor Angela Merkel told MPs on Thursday that she would “push for a vote in Europe” to close them. While some Alpine nations such as Italy have been receptive to a slopes ban this year, despite the further damage it would inflict on the tourism sector, others such as Austria have dug their poles in and refused. The European Commission has said piste policy is up to individual member states, and has urged them to co-ordinate. (FT)

  • The German audit watchdog has told prosecutors that EY may have acted criminally in its work on the collapsed payment company Wirecard. The report by Apas is the first time a government agency has said EY may have broken the law during its audits of Wirecard, which imploded this year after revealing a multiyear fraud. Separately, EY faced a barrage of criticism at a parliamentary hearing into Wirecard’s demise on Thursday. A partner at rival KPMG alleged substantial failings by EY. EY Germany has said it “vehemently rejects” the Apas suspicion that it acted criminally. It said that “based on our current state of knowledge, our colleagues conducted the audits professionally and in good faith”. (Handelsblatt/FT)

  • Italian doctors, heroes of the country’s pandemic first wave, are now in the crosshairs of conspiracy theories spreading across social media. The trend seems to correlate with a growing distrust of the government’s handling of the second coronavirus wave. Around 80 per cent of Italians say they are finding the country’s second lockdown harder than the first. (Politico)

  • The Centre for European Reform argues in a report that a deal between the EU and the UK on international co-operation looks unlikely. It thinks London could try to “divide and rule” EU states on international questions, a strategy the EU will be “wary” of. The paper analyses the EU’s portfolio of foreign policy agreements and how well they work — or not.

Coming up on Friday

EU chief negotiator Michel Barnier will debrief MEPs and EU ambassadors on the state of play in Brexit talks. The Frenchman is also due to head to London for negotiations, but there are growing fears that Mr Barnier won’t be taking the Eurostar as the talks remain deadlocked. (FT)

mehreen.khan@ft.com; @mehreenkhn
david.hindley@ft.com





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Gastronomes look beyond pandemic to a revolution in French fine-dining

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Chef Yannick Alléno used to serve a €395 menu featuring langoustines and foie gras at his three-starred Michelin restaurant near the Champs-Elysées.

But as France prepares to allow restaurants to reopen for outdoor service next week after six months of closure, he will instead be serving up burgers at his wine bar for a fraction of the price. 

That a superstar chef such as Alléno, whose stable of high-end restaurants from Courchevel to Marrakesh hold more than a dozen Michelin stars, is changing strategy underscores the difficulties facing France’s grands restaurants as they seek to recover from the ravages of the coronavirus pandemic

“We have to inspire people to come here by sparking their curiosity,” he said of the Pavillon Ledoyen, the neoclassical building that houses several of his restaurants, including the three-starred Alléno Paris.

Such temples to French gastronomy have long catered to wealthy foreign tourists, who will happily pay more than €1,000 for a meal for two as long as they experience l’art de vivre à la française. But with international travel severely curtailed by the pandemic, such customers are not expected back for some time. 

Chef Yannick Alléno
Yannick Alléno operates high-end restaurants from Paris to Courchevel and Marrakesh that hold a dozen Michelin stars combined © Francois Durand/Getty

Attracting locals is the new challenge, as well as retaining employees, many of whom have left the sector and its notoriously challenging working conditions. Many restaurants are also saddled with large debts after taking state-guaranteed loans to ride out the crisis.

“I have three years of struggle ahead,” said Alléno, adding that half the group’s €4m in cash reserves had been spent. “For three-star restaurants, there will be many casualties.” 

His flagship restaurant used to generate more than three-quarters of revenue from foreign diners, mostly from Asia and the US. As there is little point reopening without them, the doors will remain shut until September. Alléno will for now experiment in the less-formal location as he plots an overhaul that seeks to drag fine-dining into the 21st century.

“Everything must change,” he said, quoting the title of the book he co-wrote during lockdown. In it, he called for a revamp of everything from the style of service (warmer, more personalised) to staffing (more flexible and family-friendly).

French haute gastronomie traces its roots back to visionary 19th-century chefs such as Auguste Escoffier and Marie-Antoine Carême, who created a cuisine based on rich sauces and meticulous — often theatrical — service. For decades it was considered the world’s best and became a key part of French identity.

But its popularity has faded in recent decades thanks to competition first from the flashiness of molecular gastronomy and then the pared-back Nordic style. As French haute cuisine lost ground, it became much more expensive, putting it out of the reach of many.

“The pandemic has exposed that the business model of high-end restaurants in France simply doesn’t function without tourists,” said Joerg Zipprick, co-founder of La Liste group, which ranks the world’s best restaurants.

“This is a relatively new development. It used to be that . . . a local doctor or manager would come to these places to celebrate a special occasion. No longer.”

Zipprick said that for the top chefs, many of whom had spent the past year experimenting with takeouts and meal kits, success depended on their willingness to adapt.

A customer picks up his order from Baieta in Paris
Baieta restaurant in Paris. Many top chefs have experimented with takeouts and meal kits during the past year © Franck Fife/Getty

Diners would not want fussy and experimental dishes on their return, he predicted, but would instead want to eat good food at a nice restaurant in the company of friends and family.

“No more technical stuff or food that requires a long explanation from the waiter about the fermentation process. People don’t want their meal to be a work of art,” Zipprick said.

The last time French cuisine reinvented itself was in the 1970s when chefs such as Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers created nouvelle cuisine. The movement, less opulent and calorific than the fine-dining that preceded it, put fresh and high-quality ingredients to the fore and service became less formal. 

Alléno believes top restaurants must aim to tailor experiences by talking to clients beforehand about the occasion for their dinner, the guests and their tastes.

This “concierge service” approach would allow menus to be better planned, improving the customer experience and the economics for the restaurant.

“If I know I only have three people who’ll eat langoustine on a given night then I don’t need to order six kilos just in case,” he said. “It really changes things for the kitchen.” 

Others are being even more radical. Daniel Humm’s three-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York will no longer serve meat and seafood when it reopens next month, as the Swiss chef seeks to show that sustainable and environmentally conscious eating can be compatible with luxury.

However, Éric Fréchon, the three-Michelin-starred chef behind restaurant Epicure at the five-star Le Bristol Paris hotel, played down expectations of radical change.

“Things will return much as they were before,” Fréchon said, noting that the hotel’s restaurants had a significant local client base. “People have missed the experience of haute gastronomie for so long they’ll be eager to come back.”

Fréchon said he would retain some coronavirus-era innovations, including the €1,390 “gastronomy and to bed” package that is marketed as a one-night staycation for locals that includes dinner in their suite or hotel room.

“For New Year’s Eve we had 60 servers running back and forth to rooms, it was really difficult,” he said. “But it allowed us to reach new clients who perhaps would not have dared to come to a three-star restaurant. Now we have to keep them.”

Additional reporting by Domitille Alain in Paris



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Ireland’s healthcare system taken down by cyber attack

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Ireland has shut down most of the major IT systems running its national healthcare service, leaving doctors unable to access patient records and people unsure of whether they should show up for appointments, following a “very sophisticated” cyber attack.

Paul Reid, chief executive of Ireland’s Health Service Executive, told a morning radio show that the decision to shut down the systems was a “precautionary” measure after a cyber attack that impacted national and local systems “involved in all of our core services”.

Some elements of the Irish health service remain operational, such as clinical systems and its Covid-19 vaccination programme, which is powered by separate infrastructure. Covid tests already booked are also going ahead.

However the system for processing referrals from GPs and of close contacts is down, the HSE tweeted, adding that those in need of testing should go to walk-in centres which would prioritise symptomatic cases.

“This is having a severe impact on our health and social care services today, but individual services and hospital groups are impacted in different ways. Emergency services continue, as does the @AmbulanceNAS [National Ambulance Service],” health minister Stephen Donnelly wrote on Twitter.

No group has yet claimed responsibility for the attack. Speaking on Friday morning, Reid said the HSE had also not yet been served with a ransom demand. “We are at the very early stages of fully understanding the threat, the impact and trying to contain it,” he said, adding that it was receiving assistance from the Irish police force, defence forces and third-party cyber support teams.

The master of Dublin’s Rotunda Maternity Hospital said it was advising patients who were less than 36 weeks pregnant not to present for appointments on Friday. In a statement, Cork University Hospital said patients should present for outpatient appointments, chemotherapy and surgery “unless you are contacted to cancel”, but that X-ray and radiotherapy appointments for Friday were cancelled.

Professor Donal O’Shea, consultant endocrinologist at St Vincent’s Hospital in Dublin, told RTE radio that there could be implications for patient care. “Clinical systems haven’t been targeted, but if you can’t access your computer, then getting results is impossible . . . so before long, there are going to be clinical implications,” he said. In its statement, Cork University Hospital said “only emergency bloods” would be processed at this time.

Reid said that patients nationally “should still come forward until they hear something different” and that an update should be available later on Friday. A spokeswoman for the HSE was unable to provide a further update on patient care by mid-morning. “We apologise for the inconvenience to the public and will give further information as it becomes available,” she added.

Healthcare workers told the FT they were told to turn off their laptops, leaving staff at home offline and those working in hospitals reverting to pen and paper to manage patients’ information.

In a statement on its website, Ireland’s child and family agency Tusla said that its emails, internal systems and portal for child protection referrals was also offline because it was hosted by the HSE’s network.

The attack comes as actions by cyber criminals to disrupt public services have increased during the pandemic. Earlier this month, hackers believed to be from eastern Europe breached the IT systems of the Colonial Pipeline, a major fuel conduit that supplies much of the eastern US.

“Opportunistic cyber attackers targeting flooded healthcare organisations has been a common theme throughout the course of the pandemic,” said Charlie Smith, consulting solutions engineer at Barracuda Networks. “These scammers are aware of the huge significance of health services’ IT systems at this time, and so will stop at nothing to disrupt said systems or steal valuable data in exchange for ransom.”





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Watchdog turns on Polish government over coronavirus election

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Poland’s supreme audit office has accused prime minister Mateusz Morawiecki of exceeding his powers, as it unveiled a highly critical report into the government’s attempt to hold last year’s presidential election by post because of the pandemic.

The salvo by the supreme audit office (NIK) is the latest in a series of disputes over last year’s election, which was meant to be held in May, but was eventually postponed until June as coronavirus swept through Europe.

It is also the latest in a series of clashes between the ruling Law and Justice party and Marian Banaś, a former finance minister who was put in charge of the NIK in 2019 thanks to the support of politicians from the ruling camp, but has since become a thorn in the government’s side.

Representatives of NIK, which is responsible for auditing government spending, on Thursday said the attempt to hold the presidential election by post in May — which was ultimately abandoned after disagreements in the ruling camp — had cost at least 76m zloty ($20.2m).

They also said that there had been no legal basis for the prime minister to give any orders to two state-controlled entities, the Polish Post and the Polish Security Printing Works (PWPW), in relation to holding the election, such as the printing of voting cards.

“The only body entitled to organise elections was the State Election Commission,” Banaś said during a press conference. “Organising the elections on the basis of an administrative decision should not have happened and was without legal basis.”

He said the NIK had informed prosecutors of possible crimes committed by the boards of the Polish Post and PWPW, which were involved in the preparations for the postal ballot.

The Polish Post said “categorically” that “all its actions taken to implement the prime minister’s decision of April 16 2020 were founded on legal provisions”. PWPW said it considered NIK’s move “unjustified” and “baseless”.

Banaś added that the NIK was analysing whether to notify prosecutors of concerns relating to the actions of other parties involved in the preparations for the election.

The government said that “all decisions on beginning technical preparations for postal voting in the presidential elections were in accordance with the law”.

“All the actions [of the prime minister and the head of the chancellery of the prime minister] were aimed at holding elections by the constitutional deadline,” the government’s information office said in a statement.

“The prime minister never called for presidential elections or for postal voting. The goal of the actions taken was to allow the participation in the elections of those who were entitled to vote, but whose life and health were at risk as a result of the pandemic.”

Jacek Sasin, minister for state assets, took a similar line, and told Polish state radio that the NIK report was “a certain element in the fight between the government and . . . Marian Banaś”.

Banaś has been under pressure to step down from his post since media reports emerged alleging that a building he owns was used as a brothel. In an interview with Politico, he dismissed the allegations as a “smear campaign” aimed at ousting him.

He concluded his press conference by drawing attention to the fact that the NIK was one of a series of institutions targeted by fake bomb threats earlier this week, and to an email sent to the NIK this morning falsely claiming that Banaś’s son was going to commit suicide.

“I ask you yourselves for a comment on this,” he said to the assembled journalists.



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