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Frankfurt’s elite have rediscovered the joys of nature



It was where Snow White fled, where Hansel and Gretel were left to find their way and where Little Red Riding Hood met the Big Bad Wolf. The woods, as described in the folklore of the Brothers Grimm, have long held an almost mystical place in the German psyche.

The woods are a symbol not only of danger and disorientation, but of salvation, of how, by overcoming fears and resisting temptation, we can outsmart dark forces and emerge wiser and stronger.

This may go some way to explaining why the forests of the Taunus, a prosperous area to the north-west of Frankfurt, Germany’s financial capital, have become so popular during the pandemic.

It has been a bewildering year, yet also one in which many people, forced to embrace the everyday and confront human fragility, have found joy in their surroundings. The Taunus may not have held much allure when the city’s wealthy could fly all over the world. But when one is advised against travelling even between regions within Germany, it has become a place to find solace and beauty.

The forests offer everything from rambles and cycles up gentle paths covered by tunnels of trees to steep climbs past the Celtic ruins of Altkönig, one of the highest peaks. The area is easily accessible — just half an hour from central Frankfurt by public transport, or even quicker by car at weekends when there is little traffic.

It is an increasingly popular place to live, too. “People have been moving out of the inner city in places like Frankfurt, Munich and Berlin over the past three or four years as rents and purchase prices have shot up. The corona crisis has [accelerated] this movement,” says Stefan Behrendt, a senior research analyst at Dr Lübke & Kelber, a property investment firm. “People want to have more space. They don’t want to live without a [room for a] home office. In Germany too there’s a tax break — if you have a separate room to work in, it’s tax deductible. There’s just not a lot of supply of bigger places in the middle of the city. And if you are only coming into the city two or three times a week, then congestion is less of an issue.”

As I walk from the station in Kelkheim up into the forests, the well-kept houses and gardens and expensive cars that line the driveways are testament to the wealth here. In enclaves such as Königstein, one of the choicest parts of the region with its medieval castle and pretty old town, rents are on a par with those in the plusher parts of central Frankfurt, such as Westend — though prices to buy, while rising fast, are lower.

Bad Homburg, one of the largest towns in the area, was where Alfred Herrhausen, former chairman of Deutsche Bank, lived — and where, on the way to work in 1989, he was assassinated by far-left militants. In normal times, the Taunus hosts fancy gatherings at swish hotels such as Schlosshotel Kronberg, where European Central Bank president Christine Lagarde held her first away day for her senior management team late last year. The area is also dotted with international schools.

© Getty Images/iStockphoto

Those wishing to dress the part will have to head into the centre of Frankfurt, however. For outdoor clothing, luxury label Moncler, famed for its padded winter jackets, has a boutique on Goethestrasse. Globetrotter, a mountaineering store near the ECB’s new headquarters, stocks premium brands such as Arc’teryx. I am no mountain-biking aficionado, but cycle shops Montimare, Feine Velos and Bike Boutique in Frankfurt, and E-motion, a national e-bike chain with a branch in the Taunus town of Oberursel, come recommended. Sales of bikes and e-bikes in Germany hit 3.2m in the first six months of the year — a near 10 per cent increase year on year, according to the Zweirad-Industrie-Verband, a trade body.

Yet even before the virus struck, venturing into the woods was Germany’s great equaliser. In his excellent 2014 book on the country’s cultural history, Germany: Memories of a Nation, Neil MacGregor describes the Grimms’ fairy tales as a “part of a German political and social renaissance” and “evidence that . . . the Germans had an identity which no foreigner could eradicate”.

This idea of unity forged under the branches is also there in the writings of 19th-century Romantics such as Ludwig Tieck and Joseph von Eichendorff, and is all the more remarkable for existing in a land where divisions between east and west, and Bavaria and the rest of the country, can still feel profound.

As winter encroaches and cultural attractions, along with restaurants, bars, gyms and much else, are set to remain closed until at least early December, Germans — rich and poor, young and old — will find few better ways to revive their spirits than to embrace nature and go back to their roots.

Claire Jones is global economy reporter for FT Alphaville

This article is part of FT Wealth, a section providing in-depth coverage of philanthropy, entrepreneurs, family offices, as well as alternative and impact investment

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Armenia’s prime minister claims military is plotting a coup




Armenia’s prime minister has claimed the country’s military is plotting a “coup,” and taken to the streets with his supporters after senior army figures in the former Soviet republic called on him to resign.

Nikol Pashinyan has faced months of protests demanding he step down after the defeat of Armenian forces in a six-week war with neighbouring Azerbaijan that ended in November.

The army weighed in on Thursday, calling on the prime minister to quit after he fired the first deputy chief of staff for criticising him.

A letter to the prime minister signed by 40 senior officers warned Pashinyan not to use force against demonstrators, but did not say whether the army would act to remove him from power.

“The current government’s ineffective management and serious mistakes in foreign policy have put the country on the brink of collapse,” the officers wrote on Facebook.

Pashinyan later fired the chief of the general staff, Onik Gasparyan, ordered police to secure government buildings in Yerevan and told his supporters in the capital’s Republic Square to avoid violent clashes.

Demonstrators at an opposition rally in Yerevan demand the resignation of Nikol Pashinyan. They cheered as a fighter jet flew overhead © Artem Mikryukov/Reuters

Describing the situation as “manageable” the prime minister denied he was planning to flee the country and said the army’s statement was an “emotional reaction” to a dispute over the defeat in the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict.

“We have no enemies in Armenia. I am calling for calm,” Pashinyan said, according to Russian news agency Interfax. “Of course, the situation is tense, but we need dialogue, not confrontation.”

He later took to the streets with several thousand supporters and a megaphone — an echo of the 2018 “velvet revolution” that swept him to power following a march across the country that galvanised popular support. A few thousand opposition supporters gathered at a different square and cheered as a fighter jet flew overhead.

Pashinyan has fought off calls for his resignation since signing a Moscow-brokered peace deal in November that cemented territorial gains for Azerbaijan in Nagorno-Karabakh. The mountainous enclave in the South Caucasus is internationally recognised as part of Azerbaijan, but is populated by ethnic Armenians who seized control after a war that broke out in the dying days of the Soviet Union.

Azerbaijan, a mostly Muslim country and a close ally of Turkey, launched an offensive in September with the aim of retaking the entire enclave. Armenia’s army was ill prepared for oil-rich Azerbaijan’s modern drone fleet and significant backing from Ankara.

More than 3,300 Armenian soldiers died in the conflict, with a further 9,000 wounded. Thousands of civilians were displaced, including some who set their own homes on fire as they fled land now under control of Azerbaijan.

Russia, the traditional regional power broker and Armenia’s most important ally, remained neutral even as several previous ceasefires failed and has deployed 2,000 peacekeepers to secure the region.

Pashinyan admitted the terms were “unbelievably painful for me and my people” but argued the concessions were necessary to prevent further losses.

The devastating defeat sparked fury among Armenians who stormed the country’s parliament and attacked its speaker, demanding the prime minister’s resignation.

Pashinyan backtracked on a pledge to step down after snap elections earlier this month and remained in office in the face of opposition from Armenia’s ceremonial president, three parliamentary opposition parties, and key church leaders.

The Kremlin said on Thursday it was “following events in Armenia with caution” but considered them “exclusively Armenia’s internal matter”.

Dmitry Peskov, President Vladimir Putin’s spokesman, told reporters Russia was “calling on everyone to be calm” and said “the situation should remain within constitutional limits,” according to Interfax.

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German accounting watchdog chief to step down in wake of Wirecard




The head of Germany’s accounting watchdog is to step down following mounting political pressure over corporate governance shortcomings exposed by the Wirecard fraud.

Edgar Ernst, the president of the Financial Reporting Enforcement Panel (FREP), said on Wednesday he would depart by the end of this year. He is the third head of a regulatory body to lose his job in the wake of one of Germany’s biggest postwar accounting scandals.

The collapse of Wirecard, which last summer filed for insolvency after uncovering a €1.9bn cash hole, triggered an earthquake in Germany’s financial and political establishment.

Felix Hufeld, president of BaFin, the financial regulatory authority, and his deputy Elisabeth Roegele were pushed out by the German government in January for failing to act on early red flags suggesting misconduct at Wirecard. Ralf Bose, the head of Germany’s auditors supervisor Apas, was fired after disclosing he traded Wirecard shares while this authority was investigating the company’s auditor, EY. The German government is also working to revamp the country’s accounting supervision and financial oversight.

Meanwhile, criminal prosecutors in Frankfurt are evaluating a potential criminal investigation into BaFin’s inner workings and on Wednesday asked the market authority to hand over comprehensive documents, the prosecutors office told the FT, confirming an earlier report by Handelsblatt. The potential scope of any investigation as well as the individuals who might be targeted is still unclear. BaFin declined to comment.

Ernst came under pressure as the parliamentary inquiry commission uncovered that he joined the supervisory board of German wholesaler Metro AG in an apparent violation of internal governance rules, which from 2016 banned FREP staff from taking on new supervisory board roles.

Last week, the former chief financial officer of Deutsche Post filed a legal opinion to parliament defending his move. He argued that his employment contract was older than the 2016 ban on board seats and hence trumped the tightened governance regulations.

The German government had subsequently threatened to ditch the private-sector body which currently has quasi-official powers.

In a statement published on Wednesday evening, FREP said that Ernst wants to open the door for a “fresh start” that would be untainted by the discussions around his supervisory board mandates. “FREP is losing a well-versed expert in capital markets,” the body said.

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Putin and Lukashenko’s ski fun shows cold shoulder to EU




As news of new EU sanctions against Russia began to leak out of a meeting of bloc foreign ministers on Monday afternoon, Vladimir Putin and his Belarusian counterpart Alexander Lukashenko were discussing a different challenge to the Russian president.

“You can try to compete with Vladimir Vladimirovich,” Lukashenko, in ski gear, said to his son, Nikolai. “But you probably won’t catch up,” he added, with a smile to Putin as the Russian leader pushed off down the slope.

Putin and Lukashenko are the men behind Europe’s two repressive crackdowns over the past six months, who have both jailed or exiled their most prominent opponents and seen their security forces violently assault and detain thousands of peaceful protesters.

But in a summit in the snow-covered mountains of Sochi, on Russia’s southern coast, they revelled in their twosome of leaders shunned and sanctioned by Brussels, in a calibrated message to the EU that the cold-shoulder was mutual.

For foreign policy experts there were few details to digest, despite the complex negotiations going on behind the scenes as the two post-Soviet states seek to recalibrate their future relationship.

Putin is keen to deepen integration on Moscow’s terms. Lukashenko is desperate for Russian investment and trade co-operation but is loath to relinquish sovereignty. Yet in place of diplomatic negotiations and policy pronouncements, photographs and video footage of the two leaders enjoying each other’s company were in full display.

At the outset, Putin, in jeans and an open-collar shirt and blazer, greeted his guest with a handshake and a hug. “Even our appearance, clothes and so on, suggest that these are serious negotiations in ordinary clothes,” Lukashenko quipped. “It suggests that we are close people.”

Pleasantries exchanged, it was time for the salopettes and ski boots, and a shared chairlift to the summit. Putin, pushing off confidently, set off down the gentle slope, Lukashenko in his wake.

After a short ride on snowmobiles back to their chalets, discussions continued over more than six hours — and what appeared to be three different sized wine glasses.

“The optics for the international audience is that they have been able to maintain their positions and nothing can be done against them,” said Maryia Rohava, a research fellow at Oslo university specialising in post-Soviet relations.

“Now we’re talking not just about sanctions against Belarus but also against Russia,” she added. “And it seems like they look at that like, ‘Well, we don’t care . . . We’re just enjoying our winter break like autocrats do.’”

To be sure, the fun on the slopes was not wholly without power games. Putin was clear to underscore he was the senior partner, from wrongfooting his guest at the top of the ski lift to releasing photographs of their meeting showing Lukashenko scribbling notes as his host spoke.

But the mood music was in sharp contrast to Lukashenko’s last visit to Russia in September. Then, with protests raging and the Belarusian leader’s position looking shaky, Putin reprimanded his guest for mishandling the unrest and risking the toppling of an ageing post-Soviet regime that could weaken his own.

Then, in a businesslike and cold atmosphere, Lukashenko pleaded with Putin that “a friend is in trouble” and was granted a $1.5bn loan from Moscow — but not before his host remarked that Belarusian people should be given a chance to “sort this situation out”.

The absence of such language on Monday also sent a subtle signal to other illiberal regimes, particularly those on the outer rim of Europe who, like Belarus in the past, find themselves lured towards Brussels by economic opportunities but repelled by the reforms and democratic standards demanded in exchange.

The message to the likes of Georgia, Moldova, Armenia and Turkey is that Putin, whose relations with the EU are at rock bottom, is always ready to talk.

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